Sunday, December 4, 2016

Bespoke

Just a few more steps before we're ready to take to our machines.  First, we should have a careful read through the pattern as written and make sure we have a good understanding of the techniques called for in the pattern and the flow of the work and pieces involved.  Actually, we should already have done that, this one should be a refresher.  Second, now is the time to consider if there are any design changes that we'd like to make.  Third, the math - that will be for next time.

Pattern flow

The instructions indicate the following order (and please let me know in the comments below if I've missed anything or there is any other error!):

  1. knit the back
  2. knit the two front pieces
  3. knit the 2 pockets
  4. place the 2 pockets
  5. knit the 2 sleeves
  6. join shoulder seams and attach sleeves
  7. knit and attach cuff bands
  8. knit and attach back/front bands
  9. wash and dry garment
  10. zipper placement
  11. knit the hood
  12. attach the hood to jacket neckline
  13. knit the drawstring
  14. complete drawstring casing
  15. complete finishing, darn in ends.

I find this helps me understand the "big picture" of what I'm doing and where I'm going, important (to me) for any project, but even more so for one that I'm going to tinker with.

And speaking of tinkering, one of my all time favourite knitting books, and one that I go back to over and over, is Designing Knitwear by Deborah Newton.   The book is almost 25 years old now, and some of the design ideas are dated, but her discussion of the creative process still resonates.  You can peak inside from the link above and preview selected passages from the first two chapters, and also it looks like it's available for hold through the Halifax Central Library.  You can also read this review of the book by Nancy J Thomas, another talented designer, teacher and author.

Cast on method; hem, binding or ribbing?

The Hoods Up! pattern calls for a waste yarn and ravel cord cast on for the back, front pieces, and sleeves.  This leaves open stitches at the cast on edge that will be used later to attach bands.  I quite like this detail so I've decided not to change that, but you may prefer to start with a turned up hem, a few inches of ribbing, a lace band, or an I-cord trim.  And these are just a few possibilities.  If you do decide to change, make a swatch!  Not just for measurement, but to see how it looks.  Experiment, have fun!  Often this leads to more ideas.

Texture or colour elements on main body and/or sleeves?

The original pattern is written in plain stockinette stitch.  Mary Anne is currently making a version that incorporates an all-over lace pattern.  She also has discussion on her blog of making choices in this regard.   Maybe you might like to add an intarsia motif - on the front, on the back, both?   What ideas can you think of (whether or not you intend to incorporate them in your sweater)?  I thought about adding a narrow cable strip up the front pieces, placed so that it would 2/3 from the centre toward the side seam.  I haven't entirely abandoned that idea, but I think for this KAL I'll stick to the basics.

Centre closure - zipper, buttons, pullover?  Type of band?

Do you want buttons instead of a zipper?  What about frog closures?  Maybe you'd rather convert the pattern to a pullover?

Short row shaping for custom fitting?

Do you need some extra room at the bust?  Maybe you could add some short rowed darts.

Neckline design options?

Not too much to talk about here unless you're converting to a pull over.  You could, though, change the hood for a wide ribbed collar, and extend the zipper right to the top of the collar.  Any other ideas?

Sleeve and sleeve placement design options?

Short sleeves, three-quarter sleeves, drop sleeves  - those are some options that come to mind.  Sleeves in a different colour maybe - I'm thinking a dark colour like black or brown, complimentary to your main colour.  This could help if you're short on yarn and can't get more of the same colour.  You could make the hood and pockets in the contrast colour as well.

Hood - texture or colour elements?

A different colour as noted above, or maybe no hood and instead have a ribbed collar, either stand up or wide?  If you add a design element to the body of the hoodie, can it be added to the hood as well for continuity of design?  My cable for example - maybe it could be added to the cord casing?

Conclusion

If there are any changes you want to make, or even if you think you might but you're not sure, search online for inspiration, sketch and swatch!

Nancy

4 comments:

  1. you are amazing, Nancy ! I totally agree with you about the knitting book by Deborah Newton. I found it while I was doing my knitting projects at Nscad. it is so inspirational.
    you have certainly given us aa lot to think about. Thank you for the motivation!

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  2. Hey Nancy, was reading over your list and I see that it says to launder the garment and do the zipper before the hood is done - that was because it was a cotton garment - so if you are not using cotton, ignore. Also I did use that same zipper technique back in 2014 for the old KAL and I blogged about it with lots of photos...I'm having a hard time grabbing the link to post here but you'll find it in May 2014 at knitwords.blogspot.ca - read the other posts because I also changed the pocket and told about it in another post about the same time. Keep up the good work!

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    Replies
    1. Thank you! That's a very good point regarding the cotton versus other fibres less likely to shrink. I'll grab those links to your entries about the zipper and the pockets and put them in a new entry.

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