Wednesday, May 31, 2017

Putting It All Together - Part II

Next up for me was knitting the front bands, attaching them to the front pieces, and then attaching the zipper.  This is a slightly different order than that given in the pattern instructions, so I'll explain why.

As I've mentioned before, a lot my stuff is in storage as our house is for sale.  For some reason that I cannot understand, an overstuffed craft room does not "show" well.  This led to some negotiation as to what constitutes "overstuffed" and what constitutes "essential tools and materials", so the result is a compromise not fully endorsed by either party in the negotiation, but there you have it.  My sewing machine is in storage.

The instructions call for knitting the bands and then sewing the zipper to the bands before attaching the bands to the front opening of the sweater.  I think this is a solid plan, but without a sewing machine I decided to take the opportunity to do a little research to see what other methods are available.  I should also remind you here that I'm knitting on a mid-gauge machine with hand knitting yarn, so my fabric is thicker that those using standard gauge.  That also makes me shy away from using a sewing machine on my knits as they are thicker and the stitches are a larger gauge.  And I also find sewing successfully on knits very challenging to get a smooth, non-puckering line of stitches.  So I poked around the internet for alternative methods, and YouTube did not disappoint.

Take a minute and watch this excellent video from Interweave.  Doesn't that "knitpicker" look exactly like a latch tool that we are so familiar with?

I didn't stop there though, I found another great video here.  Even though this was addresses crochet specifically, there are things to be learned.

Finally, here is a blog entry referred to in the Interweave video.  Have a read.

So I thought about these and decided that I would just do a running stitch up each side of the zipper, like so:


Once I finished prepping the zipper, I went to the machine and and knit the front bands.


What is this striped blanket you may ask?  Well, everything that isn't pale blue is waste yarn, and both bands are knit with waste yarn separating them, and also beginning and ending with waste yarn.  As I get to the end of this project I'm running out of waste yarn already wound into balls so I've been just grabbing whatever is on my table - hence the lovely combination of pale green, dark blue and white.

Once the bands are hung and the waste yarn is removed, I can assure you with the picture below that there were front bands hidden in that striped fabric hanging from my machine, and here they are in place.


Here's a closer look at the nice finish that the one row of garter stitch gives (still unblocked though remember):


You may notice that I didn't sew the zipper on the bands before I hung the bands on the front.   It was a close decision, but I decided against it as my zipper is a bit bulky and I want the teeth very close to the folded over edge, but the tape is wide, so I was afraid it would interfere with the carriage as I was hanging the front bands and knitting the loose row for the chain cast off.  The zipper is also a bit short as I had very limited selection where I shopped.  So I wanted to place it on the garment to see where it would be least noticeable to sacrifice the length - at the top or bottom.  Finally, I'm not terribly happy with the colour of the zipper (it's a light grey not quite as it is showing up in the picture), so if I can find a better one I'm going to replace it.

Here's a picture of the sewn in zipper:


You can see that there are a few small "waves" in the zipper - nothing terrible and I'm going to let the hoodie rest on the dress form for the day and see if anything works itself out.  I suspect that the problem is that the zipper is just too heavy - the tape is quite stiff.  There is a lot to consider when picking out the proper zipper for a project!

I'll be back with a follow up on that soon, as well as the next step - attaching the hood!

Nancy




Tuesday, May 23, 2017

Putting It All Together - Part I

I feel like I'm on the home stretch now!  Over the long weekend I attached the pockets, knit the bands and attached them.  So my checklist now looks like this:

  1. knit the back  ✅
  2. knit the two front pieces  ✅
  3. knit the 2 pockets   ✅
  4. place the 2 pockets  ✅
  5. knit the 2 sleeves   ✅
  6. join shoulder seams and attach sleeves  ✅
  7. knit and attach cuff bands  ✅
  8. knit and attach back/front bands  ✅
  9. wash and dry garment (not necessary for acrylic at this stage)  ❌
  10. zipper placement
  11. knit the hood   ✅
  12. attach the hood to jacket neckline
  13. knit the drawstring
  14. complete drawstring casing
  15. complete finishing, darn in ends.
I borrowed a tool from my "sewing kit" and instead of pinning the pockets in place, I basted a lime green guideline that I could follow as I crocheted the pockets in place.  Here's what that looked like:


This helped tremendously in making sure that I stayed in the right columns and rows of stitches to ensure that the pocket was straight.  Here's what my attached pockets look like:


Next I attached the sleeves:



The first picture is hanging the closed edge of the arm opening evenly over the number of stitches open on the top of the sleeve.  Wrong side is facing as the chain cast off shows on the right side.  The bottom picture is of both sleeves attached.  It's starting to look like a sweater!

The next step was to knit and attach the cuff bands for the sleeves and bottom bands for the front and back pieces.  I decided that I would continue the theme of having the chain cast off show on the right side of the fabric for the bands as well. I also decided to make the bands a little longer than called for in the pattern, which you will probably notice if you compare pictures.  


I know that you can't really see very well from this picture with all the loose threads making it look more like a hot mess.  I spent last evening getting rid of all the waste yarn and tidying things up a bit, but the light wasn't very good by the time I'd finished so a better picture will have to wait until next time.

So next up are the zipper bands and placement, the hood and drawstring, and the remainder of the finishing work.  As always, questions and comments welcome!

Nancy

Sunday, May 14, 2017

Happy Accidents

So, where we left off on the hoodie was with the pockets, in the blog entry here.  I was having a couple of problems - I felt my chain cast on and cast off were too tight because I'm out of practice, and I was concerned about the curl on the diagonal edge of the pocket.

I've rectified the tension on the chain cast on/off with some practice swatches, which is important as we move toward attaching the pieces together.  And I've experimented with the e-wrap facing I discussed in the March 17 blog entry, and I'm really happy with the results.

Here's a photo of my "unfaced" pocket on the right, and the faced one on the left.

You can see from the picture that the two bias edges look distinctly different.  The faced one almost looks like there are a few stitches of ribbing below below the decreases, but it is just the change in gauge of those stitches resulting from the two strands of yarn (I decided to e-wrap the 4 edge stitches).  I like the look, and the feel is thick and sturdy, and there is absolutely no roll - these are both unblocked pieces.  The pocket on the right, without the e-wrapped edge, is rolling under, and while this might be fixed with blocking, I'm so pleased with the faced pocket that I decided to go with it for the matching pocket.  If you use pockets a lot, as I do, then adding that strength to the area of the pocket where your hands will be in and out can only add to the durability of the garment.  

Here's a look at the "wrong side" of the pockets, below, this time with the unfaced pocket on the left and the faced pocket on the right.

You can see the difference, but I wish that you could feel the difference.  I used the main yarn for the e-wrap facing, but in some cases you may wish to use a strand of a thinner yarn so there is not so much thickness to the faced edge.  You can certainly see that the wrong side, where it has been e-wrapped, looks different as well.  Here's a closer picture of the under side of the facing below.





I may likely be the only one that has the "roll problem", perhaps because I am using a thicker yarn and a mid-gauge machine, an inexpensive acrylic, and/or an operator with limited experience as compared with many of you, but I'm very glad I did!  I call this a happy accident as it helped me recall something I learned at a seminar several years back but never really had a chance to experiment with, and learning and using new techniques is always a good thing.  This is what Lynne and I are striving to achieve in this blog and for whoever wants to come along on this ride with us.  I think being able to understand our machines, troubleshoot problems, and modify existing patterns to suit the machines and yarns that we have available to us, as well us customizing sizes and personal preferences, is liberating and lets us get the very best use of our machines and the very best results we possibly can.

We're getting very close to the end of this project, with all the main pieces now knit.  These are the steps that we set out way back in December, with check marks by the ones that I have now completed:
  1. knit the back  ✅
  2. knit the two front pieces  ✅
  3. knit the 2 pockets   ✅
  4. place the 2 pockets
  5. knit the 2 sleeves   ✅
  6. join shoulder seams and attach sleeves
  7. knit and attach cuff bands
  8. knit and attach back/front bands
  9. wash and dry garment (not necessary for acrylic at this stage)
  10. zipper placement
  11. knit the hood   ✅
  12. attach the hood to jacket neckline
  13. knit the drawstring
  14. complete drawstring casing
  15. complete finishing, darn in ends.
As always, let us know in the comments how you're doing, if you have any questions or suggestions, or just to say hi!

Nancy






Sunday, May 7, 2017

Windmills & Dragon Tails

We had a great time at the library yesterday - thank you to everyone who came out.  Here are some photos of the day!




 Foreground left - Judie working on the Windmill Bag on her Brother convertible machine.  Foreground right - Peter working on some troubleshooting and repairs on Val's LK140.



Lynne's progress on the Dragon Tail scarf on her LK140, using a big ball of Caron Cakes yarn.






Alex's Dragon Tail Scarf in progress on his Studio SK860, also using Caron Cakes yarn.



Cathie's scarf on her LK150.




The whole gang hard at work.




Close up of the bridging work on Alex's Dragon Tail Scarf.














Alex's finished scarf off the machine.  Total knitting time probably under 3 hours I think?














So all in all I think a very productive day with lots of knitting and laughs, some technical difficulties, but much learning.  We haven't decided the date or location or project for our next working get-together, only that there is enthusiasm to do this again, so we would love to hear suggestions.

I do hope to resume blogging the final steps of the hoodie very soon. In the meantime let us know how you are progressing!

Nancy